Meningen over 2020 Barolo Bussia Cicala (0,75L)

Ian D'Agata, IWineReview: 100

"Deep red, slightly darker than the garnet-tinged Colonello. Very concentrated aromas and flavours of minerals, red berries, raspberry nectar, cinnamon, cloves, menthol and pepper. Less animal leather-accented than past vintages, this is a frutier and fleshier Cicala but with the same Cicala-like structure. Very energetic, this absolutely gorgeous wine closes long, youthfully chewy and extremely long with a sweet and sour juiciness. Outstanding Cicala, there’s just no other way of putting it: in fact, I think this is the best young Cicala in memory. “Razor-like” is the way Giacomo Conterno describes it, given its rapier-like acid cut and wealth of spicy sweet red fruit all tied together by an amazing minerality. And he’s going to want to kill me for saying this, but let me tell you, this is one Cicala that is practically of a Granbussia-quality level. It really is that good. Cicala is 3.2 hectares large: they could make 22,000 bottles but they only make 6000, which tells you a great deal about the quality orientation of this famous winery. Drinking window: 2032-2050."

Falstaff: 95

"Clear ruby garnet colour, medium density. Rich nose of plums and mulberries, followed by truffles and earthy components. Compact and dense in the attack and on the palate, dominated by grippy, bold tannins, a dense texture, a little rough on the finish."

Arjen Rutten, jamessuckling.com: 97

"Dense garnet in the glass. On the nose it’s restrained, with cinnamon, sweet violets, cherry pits and a balsamic whiff. The attack is full, with a dense palate that’s powerful yet velvety. The crisp, refined tannins are long. with deliciously integrated acidity. Great balance and concentration. Best after 2030."